We need the Turkish coast
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Even the most successful Russian brands are still cautious about entering international markets, fearing to lose in unfamiliar conditions the advantages they have in Russia, as well as fearing direct competition with international and local brands.
HOUSES ARE NO BETTER
The "star" of Russian exports for the last four years has not been fashion, but cosmetics. For example, Natura Siberica operates original stores in 7 countries of the world (Russia, China, Spain, Denmark, Serbia, Montenegro, Estonia), and the total number of countries in which the company's products are represented in retail chains is 45.Notes Konstantin Budagyan, Senior Analyst at CBRE's Market Research Department.
He is supported by Fashion Consulting Group specialists. According to them, not a single domestic brand that produces its product inside the country has conducted global advertising campaigns, and the knowledge of the end user outside Russia about Russian brands is extremely limited.
"Accordingly, there is practically no interest in them and forthere is no need for these brands," believes Anna Lebsak-Kleimans, CEO of Fashion Consulting Group. –
On the other hand, there is interest in principle in authentic fashion with ancient cultural roots. It always exists, whether it's Slavic, Arabic or Asian history.
From time to time "Russian themes" slip through in the West in the form of "light stylizations". For example, in 2009, two European Fashion houses, Chanel and Kenzo, presented clothing lines a la russe. It was then that Kenzo became fashionable "Russian" shawls, which could be bought both at Zara and at H&M. Partly on this is the capitalization of brands that use stereotypes about the Russian style, such as A’LaRusse, Ulyana Sergeenko, etc. Among the "strong Russian competencies", FCG also notes fur coats . Thanks to this, for example, Elena Ermak sold fur coats very successfully in New York.
FCG experts call the brand of children's clothing Choupette. The company reports that initially the brand did not plan to work in distant foreign markets, but there were enthusiasts among the partners who persuaded the company's management to give them the opportunity to open franchising stores. As a result, boutiques Choupette opened in Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Ukraine. In June 2015, the country's first branded boutique was launched in Los Angeles Choupette, and in May 2018, the branded corner of the brand opened in Dubai.
The company "Yegoryevsk-footwear", which owns the TM "strong>"Kotofey", did not have a goal to develop abroad, but today, according to FCG estimates, foreign markets (Belarus, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Estonia) account for from 7% up to 10% of brand supplies.
"There are players in the Russian market who enter quite exotic markets for us," says Anna Lebsak-Kleimans. So, Acoola launched sales of its products in India. Last year, the Russian Concept Group, which owns the brand, created a joint venture with the Indian concern Saamag Group, which will develop the Acoola chain of children's clothing stores in India. It is also planned to launch online sales of Acoola through local players – online stores this year myntra.com , jabong.com and tatacliq.com.
The Russian brand of children's clothing Gulliver entered the international market in October 2017: the company opened a store in Limassol (Cyprus) under the franchise system, and in 2018 it launches a distribution program in Italy, Spainresearch institutes, Portugal, Great Britain and China. The Cypriot expansion will continue – to Limassol will be added branded magazines in Paphos and Nicosia.
Quite actively, according to Ms. Lebsak-Kleimans, is developing the Western market and Finn Flare A year ago, the brand began to be sold on Amazon and Otto in Germany, and since the beginning of October 2017, sales have started on one of the largest European online platforms Zalando. After Germany, the retailer plans to enter the British and American markets.
"Last year, the Melon Fashion Group entered the Polish market with all three of its brands: Love Republic, Zarina and befree, – having launched six stores in the country, – recalls Elizaveta Cherkasskaya, Consultant of the Retail services department of JLL. – Also a good example of international expansion was the entry of «Sportmaster», the first of the Russian retailers, into the Chinese market ».
To be continued.
Text: Ekaterina Reutskaya
Photo: shutterstock
