Under the Alexander III Bridge, in the light of the first full moon of the year, creative director John Galliano captured for the audience a historical moment in time: a walk through the underworld of the most authentic, real Paris. The parade of cinematic characters came to life in a sensual production imbued with the disturbing and rainy atmosphere of the night city. Clothes were filled with unconscious associations that shape our facial expressions, and presented a separate universe for studying the ritual of dressing, broadcast through high fashion.

Using the body as a canvas, we build an appearance that expresses our inner world, a form of emotion. The Maison Margiela 2024 Haute Couture Spring-summer 2024 collection is like a painted picture of states and events forming a character reflected in clothes.

This time, the Maison Margiela brand has turned fashion into real art. The show took the audience into the world of bohemian drama and noir atmosphere. A bizarre theatrical performance revealed the intimate nightlife of the French capital.

John Galliano drew inspiration from the photographs of Brassai, a Hungarian—French photographer who captured the urban life of Paris and the night side of clubs and streets in the 1920s and 1930s. In his pictures, you can see "lovers, dancers and gangsters wandering along the banks of the Seine."

The main elements of the collection are curved silhouettes, hyper-narrow waistlines in corsets, torn tights, eccentric hats, jackets with huge shoulders, soft curves of the hips and transparent fabrics.

A key detail that permeates many outfits was the Victorian corset, which was tightened as much as possible to create unnatural hourglass silhouettes. The atmosphere was further accentuated by the theatrical gait of the models and makeup resembling glossy masks.

Artist Pat Boguslavsky worked on the immersive show and the broken gait of the models, and makeup artist Pat McGrath was responsible for the doll makeup.

The collection was undoubtedly an unforgettable conclusion to Paris Haute Couture Week. John Galliano certainly managed to express himself to the maximum, creating provocative and luxurious images in which you want to consider every detail.

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