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02.04.2024 | Амина Айзятова

5 main couture collections fall-winter 2024 Paris Fashion week

Сhristian Dior

The Dior fall-winter 2024 women's collection will be remembered for its practicality. After all, who else if not Maria Chiuri, creative director of the Dior fashion house, knows what modern women want to wear and how to present them with luxury accompanied by freedom and independence.

This time, the main source of inspiration for Chiuri was Marc Bohan’s “Miss Dior” diffusion line. This collection, created under the leadership of Bohan in 1967, was distinguished by practicality unusual for couture and, of course, created a real sensation in the fashion industry. Thus, taking as a basis the concept of one of the brand’s most revolutionary collections, Maria chose “Miss Dior” herself as her muse for this season, as evidenced by the logo printed in large letters on skirts, coats, jackets, trench coats and accessories.

The multifaceted Marie Chiuri has once again proven that she has a true talent for storytelling about femininity. In addition to the obvious symbols of femininity: midi and mini skirts, a-silhouette, leopard print, dresses made of flowing silk, decorated with rhinestones, crystals and fringe - the collection featured relaxed suits, loose denim and knitwear, black leather jackets and amoraks. Calm white, milky, beige, gray and catchy leopard colors were chosen as the main color palette.

Schiaparelli 

The new Schiaparelli collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, can be described in a nutshell as elegant surrealism. This season, Daniel Roseberry, creative director of the fashion house Schiaparelli, decided to rely on clear and wearable clothes with a subtle hint of the brand’s natural surreal.

A symbol of the changes at Schiaparelli was the Vendôme Pavilion, where Roseberry successfully demonstrated a new approach to creating and presenting his collections: the creative director of the fashion house retained the effect of surprise and shock, without departing from everyday life. Thus, the show presented variations of basic single-breasted suits, decorated with embroidery, buttons made from jewelry and cowboy ties made from synthetic hair. Another clear example of Roseberry's new concept is the versatile ribbed turtlenecks and matching skirts, which create the illusion of skin - an element that gives the collection the individuality and playfulness that is characteristic of Schiaparelli.

Speaking about the merits of the collection, it is difficult not to note how harmoniously the designer connected American and French styles, thereby increasing the uniqueness of his creation. For example, an asymmetrical strapless dress in ecru and a fitted dress in gold viscose look quite casual, in the tradition of American style, while a black cape dress in embossed satin looks more formal and suits the tastes of Parisian women.

The conclusion suggests itself: the new Schiaparelli fall-winter 2024 collection is not about high fashion or demi-couture, but about clothes that could fit into the wardrobe of any modern woman and would be relevant regardless of the occasion.

Chloè

The Chloè fall-winter 2024 collection was not only Chemena Kamali's triumphant debut as creative director of the fashion house, but also an open expression of a vibrant manifesto of modern femininity.

The collection created under the leadership of Chemena absolutely justified its name - “Intuition”. In translucent and completely transparent dresses, overalls with trains, elegant coats, delicate blouses with frills and flounces, one can read the lightness, smoothness, femininity and emotionality inherent in them by the designer. “Intuition is what you feel and what you want to feel. In my opinion, a modern woman needs the opportunity to follow her intuition and be herself,” shares Kamali.

For inspiration, Chemena turned to the archives of the brand from the times of Karl Lagerfeld and Phoebe Philo, true legends of the fashion industry. Paying homage to tradition, Kamali demonstrated a deep understanding of the brand's DNA, reflected in soft romantic hues, flowing fabrics and the effortless elegance that is felt in every piece. At the same time, Chemena also added a touch of modernity to the new collection of Chloè: short shorts, loose trousers on the hips, jackets with pockets added the chic of modern reality to the collection.

The accessories presented at the show deserve special attention: gold “Chloè” logos, printed in an elegant font on the straps, and headbands added a touch of charm to the looks, and high boots harmoniously complemented the jumpsuits with trains.

Saint Laurent 

At the last fashion week in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello once again proved how well he knows the archives of the Saint Laurent fashion house and how professionally he can adapt the legacy of the greatest couturier to the needs of modern women. The main source of inspiration for Vaccarello was the first transparent collection created by Yves Saint Laurent in 1968. Speaking about the show, Anthony emphasized: “The autumn-winter collection was conceived as something ephemeral, fleeting, disappearing as quickly as the flame of a lit and immediately extinguished candle goes out.”

The basis for most of the products presented at the show was the controversial material used to create hosiery products. As you know, nylon is not durable: the material stretches, rides up and breaks easily, and also difficult to fit into the ready-to-wear concept. But we should pay tribute to the creative director and the Saint Laurent atelier, who, like true professionals, managed to cope with a difficult task and presented real fashion masterpieces to the public.

The show featured transparent blouses with bows, tight high-waisted pencil skirts, tight dresses draped at the waist and bodice just below the knee, several silk mini dresses attached to stockings and reminiscent of a bodysuit, unbendable leather bombers, reminiscent of coats from Eve's debut collection Saint Laurent 1962, tuxedos with large shoulders, diluting the avant-garde nature of the collection and giving it rigor and elegance.

Accessories included the finest patent leather belts, sheepskin coats that the models carried in their hands instead of bags, as well as nylon headbands in the style of turbans.

Despite the fact that the show caused a very mixed reaction among critics and fashion lovers, it will definitely be remembered for a long time for its uniqueness and originality.

Gucci 

Sabato De Sarno's third collection for Gucci maintains the vector of brand development set in the previous two collections. At the Gucci fall-winter 2024 show, the designer remains faithful to the previously announced color palette, but in slightly more muted shades. In addition, analyzing all of Sabato’s work as the creative director of this fashion house, one can trace his special love for ultra-mini length, leather and transparency, which still remain relevant.

It is worth noting that, despite some continuity of Sabato’s new collection, it still represents something absolutely authentic. The underlying concept of a contradictory fusion of things close and distant to the designer’s heart adds that unique zest to the collection: for example, we can see how sequined coats harmoniously coexist with models decorated with graphic prints in the style of the 1970s.

Each product presented at the show is like a connecting thread between the traditions of the past and the innovations of the present. In high platforms, leather waders, winter jackets made of the finest wool, we can easily discern bright elegance combined with the practicality inherent in a modern woman.

Gucci's Fall/Winter 2024 collection redefines the boundaries of fashion, creating a narrative that is as provocative as it is captivating.

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