The glitz and luxury of Hollywood
Adrian often used organza, taffeta and light fabrics from the famous French factory Bianchini-Férier, which has been producing silk since the XIX century. In the early 40s, he preferred to use viscose for a refined silhouette, but later turned to Bianchini silk to create voluminous evening dresses. These fabrics became the basis of Adrian's autumn collection of 1949. Impressed by Africa, the designer chose prints with snake skin and tiger pattern.
During the 40s, Adrian collaborated with fabric designer Paula Stoat. She sent him striped and checkered woolen fabrics, and he sketched models inspired by her work. In Adrian's hands, the restrained fabric for suits became a unique daring garment. Adrian's collaboration with Paula Stoat led to the appearance of his most famous costumes, described in Vogue as "never melodramatic, never boring."
During World War II, American women still wanted to dress fashionably and beautifully. Adrian, with his exquisite taste, came up with original models for them with colored inserts and applications from fabric remnants from other products.
In accordance with the spirit of the time, he designed a V-shaped silhouette with wide shoulders, a narrow skirt and a graphic finishing principle. It is believed that Adrian is the ancestor of the famous style of the 40s. And in 1944 he received the prestigious Critics Coty American Fashion Award.
For the followers and admirers of Adrian's talent, his work has not become history, has not gone into the shadows; it is captured on film and photographs. His works serve as a standard of glamorous Hollywood costume and elegance. Today, the word "glamour" carries a disparaging meaning, but its original meaning is "charm, charm, charm". The outfits created by Adrian are truly beautiful and exist outside of time. His style is also relevant for the works of modern couturiers. Many designers recognize Adrian's influence on their creativity: Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Azsedine Alaya, Tom Ford, Elie Saab, Valentino.
"Like Balenciaga, he was always two years ahead of everyone else in fashion," said Joan Crawford. – And maybe much further».
Text and photo: Elena Derzhavets